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Baby Bootee Crochet Pattern


Permission is given to use the Vintage Baby Bootee Crochet Pattern for Personal use without charge. All other Rights are Reserved and Commercial use is not permitted.

Free Baby Bootee Crochet Pattern

The Bootees are begun at the bottom of the sole, and No. 70 crochet cotton is used for them. Make a chain of 70 stitches, or according to length of sole required.

CROCHET BABY BOOTEES

1st ROW: Miss 3, 3 tr in next st, tr in each st along the ch, 7 tr in end st, tr in each st on other side of ch, 3 tr at end and join to top of 3 ch which stands for 1st tr. Or one can work around and around without joining, if preferred, as in case of the little shoe illustrated.

2nd ROW: Star st is used for the model, but tr may be substituted with equally good results. Ch 3 for 1st tr, widen by working 2 tr in each of 3 tr, tr in tr along the side, 2 tr in each of 7 tr, tr in each tr along the side, 2 tr in each of 3 tr and tr in middle st, join to top of 3 ch. Star st is doubtless familiar to all crocheters. To begin, ch 3, draw a loop through 2 st of ch and through next 2 st of preceding row, making 5 loops on needle, thread over and drawn through all, over and draw through the st now on needle making 1 ch to close the star; for the next and following stars draw a loop through the eye of star last made, or under 1 ch, through the back part of last loop of same star, and through next 2 st of preceding row; close as before, and repeat. To widen, draw the 4th loop through the same st with last loop of preceding star, and 6th through next st of work, or the 5th loop may be omitted in the widening star, so that no advance st of the preceding row is used. In widening the 2nd row, at ends, work a star over each of the widening tr, or as may be needed to keep the work flat and smooth, and star over star along each side.

3rd ROW: Same as 2nd row, widening at ends to keep the work flat and shape the sole nicely; widen (that is, make 2 stars over 1st star), next plain (without widening), and repeat, widening in 7th; 11 stars in all, then work plain along the side, and continue. Star st gives a better effect if the widenings are not crowded. In working plain, star over star, draw the 2 advance loops through the 1st or horizontal loop of star of last row and the eye of same star.

4th ROW: Same as 3rd row, increasing 3 stars at each end.

5th ROW: Plain.

6th ROW: Same as 3rd, increasing 2 stars at each end.

7th ROW: Plain.

8th ROW: A roll st (over 16 times) in eye of each star.

9th and 10th ROWS: All roll st, working between 2 roll st.

llth ROW: D c all around, 1 between 2 roll st; fasten off.

12th ROW: For the vamp find the middle st of toe and count 8 st from this; fasten in and, working across the toe, ch 5, miss 2 st, d c between next 2, turn, 4 d c under part of 6 ch, repeat until you have 7 bars in all, ch 3, miss 2, d c between next 2, turn, fill each sp with 3 d c, sl st over 3 d c up the side, turn; ch 5, d c over the bar of preceding row, 4 d c on 1st half of ch, repeat, ending as before, work back, filling each sp with d c, and work 2 more rows of sp in the same way, completing the vamp.

13th and 14th ROWS: Fastening in at heel, do star st all around; fasten off.

15th ROW: Count back 8 stars from corner of vamp, fasten in and work star st around the heel to corresponding place on other side of ankle; ch 36 for the strap and break thread. As star st is worked entirely on the right side, it is of course necessary to fasten off at end of a row and fasten in again at beginning, unless you turn and work back with ch 3, d c in centre of 1st star, * ch 1, d c in centre of next, and repeat; then in starting the new row ch 3, draw 2 loops in ch, and continue.

16th ROW: Fasten in at beginning of 15th row and work star st to end of strap, which should be as long as required; add to or take from the number of ch given.

17th ROW: D c to end of row, working on wrong side.

18th ROW: Ch 5 for a t tr, then * ch 2, miss 2, t tr in next, ch 2, miss 2, roll st (over 18 times) in next, repeat from *, ending with t tr at end of strap.

19th ROW: Fill each sp with 3 d c.

20th ROW; Work star st around ankle and along strap.

21st ROW: Finish with an edge of roll st and picot shells, as follows: Ch 1, roll st in middle of t tr at end of strap (p of 5 ch, roll st in same place, ch 1, d c at lower edge of strap, * ch 1. miss sp of 3 st, shell in next, ch 1, miss 3, d c in next, repeat, working 1 shell at end of strap, 4 along the edge, 2 between strap and vamp, 3 across top of vamp and 2 on the other side; then s c across end of beading to top of ankle, and continue with edge of 6 shells around top of ankle and 4 along upper edge of strap, ending with 3 d c; fasten off securely.

Thread ribbon through the beading, under each roll st and over the t tr, and fasten neatly at ends; put on tiny snap fastenings, and add small rosettes of the ribbon, with a little button, covered with ribbon, at centre of each, one on the vamp and another, smaller, at end of strap. As these little shoes are “rights and lefts,” it will be necessary to vary the directions for the straps somewhat in order to bring the rosette on the outside of each. Make the chain for strap before working the 15th row, and begin the 16th row with the first ot the strap. Simply reverse the rows of the first shoe. Bootees of almost any size may be easily shaped by following the general directions given, beginning at bottom of sole with a chain as long as required. Any stitch may be used.


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